- 3 large dried Chinese black mushrooms
- 2 1/3 cups water
- 1 (4-inch) piece kombu (dried kelp)
- 2 tablespoons bonito flakes
- 6 large eggs
- 1/4 cup heavy cream
- 1 1/2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine
- 1 1/2 teaspoons dry Oloroso Sherry
- 1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/4 teaspoon sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
- 18 flowering Chinese chives, tough bottoms discarded
- 1/2 pound jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over
- 1/2 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
- 1/4 teaspoon sugar
- 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 1/2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine
- 1 tablespoon dry Oloroso Sherry
- Pinch of white pepper
- Equipment: 8 (4- to 5-ounce) bowls or ramekins
- Simmer mushrooms in water in a small saucepan 5 minutes, then let steep off heat 10 minutes. Add kombu and return just to a simmer. Turn off heat and add bonito flakes, then let steep 10 minutes. Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl or glass measure, discarding solids. Cool dashi to room temperature.
- Beat eggs and 1 1/2 cups cooled dashi in a medium bowl, then whisk in remaining custard ingredients.
- Divide among bowls. Cover each tightly with foil and arrange in a steamer rack. Steam, covered, over simmering water until just barely set in center, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove pot from heat and let stand, covered, 2 to 3 minutes. (Custard will continue to set.)
- Blanch chives in a medium pot of boiling salted water 30 seconds, then transfer to an ice bath to stop cooking. Pat chives dry. Cut into 3/4-inch pieces and gently combine with crab and remaining ingredients.
- Top warm custards with crab mixture.