- 1 stick unsalted butter
- 2 tablespoons sugar
- 4 firm-ripe Anjou pears, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cored
- 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg, divided
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 3/4 cup stone-ground cornmeal (preferably white)
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 3/4 cup whole milk
- 1/4 cup pure maple syrup (preferably dark amber or Grade B)
- 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
- Accompaniments: pure maple syrup (for drizzling); sour cream
- Preheat oven to 400°F with rack in middle.
- Melt butter in a 12-inch nonstick skillet. Brush a 9-inch cake pan (2 inches deep) with 1 tablespoon melted butter and reserve 6 tablespoons in a small bowl. Sprinkle sugar evenly over butter remaining in skillet. Arrange pears, cut sides up, in skillet and sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg. Cook over medium heat 5 minutes, then turn pears over and sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg. Cook until liquid pears give off has evaporated and cut sides are lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes more.
- Transfer pears, cut sides down, to cake pan.
- Whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg in a bowl. Whisk in milk, syrup, eggs, and reserved butter just until smooth. Pour over pears and bake until golden and a wooden pick inserted in center of cake comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool in pan on a rack 15 minutes, then run a knife around edge of cake to loosen and invert onto a platter.