- A Virginia ham is one “raised and cured in Virginia.” The best are local-cured. The next best is Gwaltney.
- Preferably soak overnight in water to cover, then discard the soaking water. Cook in enough cold water to fully cover.
- If the ham is being cooked without soaking, the water should be changed midway through cooking. Discard first cooking water and start over with fresh hot water to cover.
- Bring the ham to a near simmer, then adjust the burner to hold the cooking to what we always called a mull—just a quiet bubble.
- Never let boil; as the meat cooks through the heat will have to be adjusted to keep it below the boil.
- Keep the water above the ham by adding hot water as it is cooked away.
- Cook for at least 6 hours, at which time the bone begins to protrude at the top of the ham.
- Test the ham for tenderness by piercing with an ice pick or a skewer.
- If the ham seems too hard, leave to cool in the cooking liquid for 2 hours.
- Remove to a rack to drain and set for 15 minutes. Slice with a sharp, wide-bladed knife. It is easier to slice with the skin on while still warm.
- Trim some of the skin off the slices and some fat—but not all; ham fat is flavorsome and goes well with the lean in a boiled dinner.